It began as a conversation over dinner with my friend George (not my blogging buddy but a different George) It was the kind of dialogue that begins with (“Wouldn’t it be cool to…”) Being bikers, we had often heard stories of the mecca to Sturgis in the Black Hills of South Dakota held each year during the first week of August. Founded in 1938 and pausing only during World War II from 1942-1944, it is has grown to be the largest motorcycle rally in the world. It was over dessert on a warm spring evening in 1991 that we made the commitment to go.
George had a trailer that would hold both his 1976 Harley Sportster and my 1982 Yamaha Seca 750. His Honda Accord was sufficient to tow the weight but close enough to keep us vigilant. We called ahead to book a room and discovered that everything within 100 miles of Sturgis was taken. We knew it was a popular biker destination but didn’t know between 50,000 and 60,000 bikers would descend upon this town – population, 5000. (Today it has grown to around 7200 but the rally attendance hovers around 500,000!) We finally found a room outside of the 100 mile mark and a stone’s throw from Wyoming. We were all set.
A few weeks before our departure I attended a fund raiser sponsored by the school district I was in. It was focused on gathering primarily food and clothing for the Yankton Sioux on a reservation in Southeast South Dakota. I had the opportunity to speak with the Sioux Elder, Ellsworth Chytka, who was making the presentation and before I new it, we were invited to spend time with him and his family on the reservation on our way to Sturgis which was located on the western most part of the state. What a rare opportunity for us to see first hand what life was like for these Native Americans who remained separate from mainstream society, what part of their culture still mattered, and what issues they faced. We exchanged numbers and addresses promised to do our best to get together.
August finally arrived, we strapped our bikes to the trailer in Somers, NY, put our gear in the back seat and a plethora of maps in the front seat and we were off! Spelling each other, we drove over 12 hours the first day, regularly checking the car, the bikes, and the trailer and keeping our speed only slightly above the 55 mph speed limit suggested by the trailer manufacturer. We found a motel that night and went to bed with no incidents to report. The next day we agreed to pick up the pace and did pretty well until early afternoon when one of the trails tires blew. George guided the car to the shoulder and after a replacing the bad wheel with a spare, we were cautiously on our way to the next town where we paused our trip to have our flat tire repaired. Since we had lost some time we decided to drive well into the night to get back on schedule. I believe we were in Indiana as we drove into the setting sun and we both remarked that the sun seemed to be taking a long time to set. We wondered if driving due West on a straight, flat road actually prolonged the process. For the rest of the trip to Sturgis we often remarked about the extra long sunsets. (I haven’t done the math to see chasing the setting sun really kept it in view longer or if we imagined it.)
As we entered South Dakota we left the highway and traveled on some rather bumpy and pot-holed back roads. It was then that we noticed an odd noise and the smell of burning rubber so when we stopped for gas we checked out the trailer only to find that somehow the axle was bent and causing the tires to wear unevenly. Luckily, we weren’t too far from Ellsworth’s reservation so we slowly pushed forward and made it to the reservation and his house without breaking down further incident.
The his home on the reservation was set on numerous acres of open land dotted by islands of woods. Roaming free within a spacious fenced in area were chickens and horses. In one corner was a sweat lodge with a generous quantity of unevenly piled firewood and nearby was a rather large vegetable garden. Ellsworth and his two wives and ten children along with multiple dogs and cats lived together in a large and rambling farmhouse. Largely self sufficient, there appeared to be a clear division of labor that was upheld by even the youngest of the clan. Our visit included an off road tour of the reservation by jeep, at night, with only moonlight to guide us, dinner and a room (we later discovered that we had displaced a couple of the younger children who had to double bunk with some of their other siblings), and breakfast the next morning.
Ellsworth told us of a nearby mechanic/welder who was known to do good work but had an intense dislike of Indians so when we went to him to have our trailer looked at, we were not to mention who recommended him to us. (Note: When we talked to Ellsworth about Native American issues he said he was an Indian and didn’t much care for the term, Native American.) We followed his directions to an isolated home with a huge barn surrounded by a collection of nonworking cars, trucks, tractors, and trailers and asked him if he could help us with our bent axle. Without saying a word or offering a gesture, he crawled underneath, shook his head, unhitched the trailer and pulled it into his barn. About 40 minutes later he pushed it out, showed us an axle thicker than the old one and refashion so as to fit our trailer wheels. He said, “ That one won’t break that’ll be twenty bucks.”
We drove straight on to our motel room and grabbed an early dinner and went to bed so that we could leave early the next morning, on our bikes, for Sturgis. Bikers were everywhere and cars were few and far between. Not only were bikes diagonally parked along both sides of the street but down the middle of the main drag leaving little room for anything much wider than a motorcycle. It was a visual overload of scantily clad female bikers, chaps, vests over bare chests, tattoos of every kind, and decked out bikes. The bars were mobbed and the only rule we were told to follow and that remained cemented into my brain was not to look directly at any biker woman who was wearing the colors of the Hell’s Angels!
The areas surrounding this little town offered bike races, concerts, open spaces where bikers did near impossible things with their bikes, vendors, and campgrounds. We spent a second day in Sturgis and then used the remainder of our week to ride through the Black Hills, tour Deadwood, and to visit Mount Rushmore. Experiencing those places in the open atop a motorcycle feeling the temperature changes, smelling the varying scents, and seeing the unimpeded views was indescribable.
On our way home we stopped in Indiana for the night only to find that a thief had cut the chains that tethered George’s Harley to the trailer. My Yamaha was unworthy of his effort and, for the first time throughout this trip I realized my Harley envy that hadn’t yet resulted in a purchase, was a good thing. We contacted the police who said they knew of a man who had a history of stealing motorcycles and they would let us know if they came up with anything. We readjusted my bike on the trailer and left for our last leg of our journey. Somewhere in Pennsylvania, on a country road we stopped for gas and upon checking the trailer noticed that one of the hubs was glowing cherry red from overheating. Apparently, the wheel bearings had little or no grease left to lubricate the spinning wheels and the friction was creating a great amount of heat. There was little chance it would last a few miles let alone the 100 plus miles we had left. It was getting dark and we knew there was no chance we could find a repair shop open and nearby. As we stood next to the gas pump discussing who would get the back seat for a more comfortable bed for the night, a man putting gas in his beat up pickup wearing ripped and soiled clothes and walked over looked at our wheel and reaffirmed (in rather crude English) that we weren’t going to get far with the trailer in that condition. He smiled and said that if we wanted, his father lived a mile and a half down the road and he would most likely be able to help. He gave us directions, told us to go all the way down the disappearing driveway, knock on the door and asked for Pop. He said, “Tell him Lucky sent you.” We figured either this friendly and helpful offer was sincere or he was sending us to a local chop shop where not only they cut up and sold stolen cars, bikes, and trailers, but maybe the people who brought these items as well. We talked it over and decided to take the chance. He said he would be along shortly but when Pop answered his door, not to be afraid of his coy dog (a coyote and dog mix). Lucky pulled out of the station and we now had a chance to reevaluate our situation but in the end, decided to give it a try.
We pulled up to an extremely run down house next to a huge barn in similar condition. Sure enough, Pop answered the door, the coy dog came charging to greet us but stopped short of biting us. So far, so good. He came out to look over our trailer situation just as Lucky pulled in behind us blocking any chance of escape should the friendly offer to help change for the worse. But that was the last time our level of defensiveness was raised. Together, with Pop’s wife and a young girl looking on, they jacked up the trailer, took off the wheels, poked around in the barn until they found matching wheel bearing on some old and rusting pieces of equipment, repacked the wheel bearings in some fresh grease, and put it all back together. It took them over two hours to put us back on the road and we asked them how much we owed them. “Nothing” they replied. We couldn’t believe how fortunate we were to happen upon these people in our time of need and to top it off, they, who were clearly living below the poverty level, asked for nothing in return. We insisted they take what we felt was a generous payment, and asked where we were so we might send them a thank you once we returned home. “Oh, don’t you know, we’re in the Promised Land.” Shivers went through us as we realized we had we had landed in Promised Land, Pennsylvania. Indeed!
(A few days later George received a call from the Indiana State Police telling them that Andy Anderson had indeed, stolen his bike and but for a few scratches it was in good shape and ready for him to pick it up. On his way back, George stopped at Promised Land and brought Lucky and Pop and his family, some food and beer.)
This, my friends, gives credence to the saying, “It’s the journey, not the destination.”
“Life is about accepting the challenges along the way, choosing to keep moving forward, and savoring the journey.” – Roy T. Bennett, The Light in the Heart
Evitandus
(That which must be avoided)
What a great story! When we discussed Hen’s piece, George and I were a little lost in how to respond in kind. Hen challenged us by asking us if we had an adventure we could recount. “NO!” was my emphatic response. I have spent my entire adult life avoiding adventure. I’m the guy whose idea of adventure is wearing a plaid tie with a striped shirt… I’m the Jon Arbuckle of adventure.
Occasionally, I might try something that tiptoes into the unknown. Once, I accompanied my brother in a rock-climbing attempt. We went to the area of the ‘Gunks known for practice climbs. In fact, there’s a climber’s route book which shows step-by-step pictures of various approaches and where to obtain hand-and-footholds, belaying points, and such. Rich was pretty experienced climber and assured me that it would be straightforward. I got three feet off the ground. My body actually froze – could not move my feet. They needed WD-40 to remove my hands from the death grip I had on the rocks. My hand prints are still there. Archaeologists think the marks are ancient petroglyphs, but I know the truth.
I can’t help it – I think it’s post traumatic stress from riding the Cyclone at Coney Island when I was a kid. Ever since that experience, I have striven to evade that life-ending feeling of rapidly escalating heartbeat, which usually accompanies the internal mantra “How in Hell did I get here?”
Sometimes a person can back themselves into an adventure, such as that time when the armed security guards emptied out of their booths and rushed me at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo – or when that gang in Rio surrounded me at the beach – but that’s a different story. I didn’t mean to have an adventure. Now that I’m thinking about that, is it likely that ALL adventures are unplanned? I’d really be interested in hearing other points of view about this.
And, yeah, I get Hen’s main point: it wasn’t about being in Sturgis – it was about what happened enroute. It was the adventure within the adventure. True enough, the journey is all important. Surviving it is also nice.
George suggested that adventure is a mindset. Once you let go of your fear, you realize that every anxiety-provoking possibility is simply an adventure waiting to happen. Thanks, Geo – that is a helpful outlook! It’s also a surprising take from a ‘glass half-empty’ guy – maybe you are a secret optimist!
Even though I may choose the spinning teacups ride over the Cyclone, who knows: my next adventure may be waiting in the queue. I’ll get back to you on that.
Here’s a stanza from Walt Whitman’s Song of the Open Road, which captures the spirit of Hen’s story for me:
Afoot and light-hearted I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me leading wherever I choose.
Henceforth I ask not good-fortune, I myself am good-fortune,
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more, need nothing,
Done with indoor complaints, libraries, querulous criticisms,
Strong and content I travel the open road.
I Beat Adventurous Adversity
After reading Hen’s piece I was a little perplexed as to how I could respond to it. As a person who lived a relatively safe life, I would never expose myself to such an adventurous experience as Henry writes about. I am sure I lost out on many opportunities as a result. But sometimes life throws us surprises and adventures occur whether we want them or not. I am getting up there in years and very happy being a cranky old man who hates technology. I like it when it is working smoothly but the minute it breaks down I am flustered as to how to fix it. My adventure began with technology. Last Wednesday morning I woke up, the arthritis in my wrist and thumbs seemed exceptionally painful, and went to turn on my new Smart TV that my daughter got me for Christmas. She set it up for me and showed me how to turn it on and get to the regular cable channels. This particular morning I turned it on as instructed and there was a whole new screen which I could not remove to get back to my home screen. So frustration was already creeping in……..I was supposed to meet Henry and Wally in New Paltz for lunch so I had that to look forward to, or so I thought. I went out to get in my Jeep and tried to turn the Jeep on and nothing. Tried it again, tried it several times…… nothing! I figured I better text Wally and Henry to let them know that I wouldn’t be joining them. Henry called right back and said he had his truck and jumper cables and he’d come to my house and give me a jump start. Wally joined us at my house and we decided to have lunch in Kingston nearby. We jump started the jeep and it was purring nicely so we left with the Jeep running to get a good charge.
I was frustrated with my Jeep and outsmarted by my Smart TV but otherwise things were improving. I got back from lunch and took the Jeep out for a long run, came home, watched a little TV on my regular unsmart TV in my bedroom. For 2 days the Jeep started as usual and I was mobile and getting things done. Saturday morning I had errands to run and jumped in the Jeep and ………nothing. I tried it again and again and again. Probably 10 times and this is where my adventure actually began. I called AAA and they came and gave me another jump start. Great. He told me to let it run for about 45 minutes…no problem. My son suggested that maybe it was the battery in the key fob and that I should try the spare fob. Sounded like a good idea, so headed out to the car, locked the door to the porch. The car was still running since the jump and I was going to take it for a long run to really charge the battery. As I was driving out of my street a light came on my dashboard that said, “Fob is not detected in the vehicle.” On a Jeep if the fob isn’t in the car while you are driving, it just shuts down, but I was close to home and turned around to get my other fob. I pulled in my drive way, accidentally shut the car off, and went to get my other set of keys. I got to the back door and realized, because I switched keys I did not have a key to the porch door cause I had just had the porch enclosed and didn’t put a spare key on my other set of keys. I immediately went into cursing mode….but wait!!!!! I hid a porch key outside for my kids. Whew, no problem, go get the key from it’s hiding place in my generator and open up the house. I opened the top of the generator and there it was. I tugged on the little leather doo hickey it was attached to and nothing happened. I pulled harder…nothing! I tried to get my finger in to where the key was stuck to no avail. The key had slipped into the hole in the hinge where it was hidden from all invaders and then twisted. Now I was scared. How the Hell am I going to get in my house? I do not want to have to break a window so now I started freaking out. I think maybe I gave Jennie the key so got in the Jeep, tried to start it and ……..dead as a door nail! Now I am really not enjoying this adventure. What am I going to do? I decided to walk around the whole house and see if by chance, one of the windows wasn’t locked.
On that side of the house the bottom of the windows are about an inch above my head. I reached up and was able to push the window open and relief ran through my body! I let go of the window and it slid back down but I could get in the house this way. I stood wondering how I was going to get my body up to the window. Because I had the different key chain I couldn’t get into the garage either where I had a nice step ladder, so what was I going to do? I told myself to calm down and think! OK, I have to make a Rube Goldberg kind of gadget to replace a ladder. I found a large wide flower pot so I put that under the window upside down but that only brought my eye brows to the window sill. Another trip around my house and I found an old wagon that I pulled over to the window, turned upside down and put the flower pot on top. As I climbed up on the upside down, wobbling flower pot, I realized it still wasn’t high enough for me to climb into the window. Another trip around the house and I found a large antique metal can that I put flowers in on my front porch. This would definitely work. I carried it to the window, took the flower pot off and piled the large can on top of the upside down wagon, put the flower pot back on the wagon so I could use that to help me step up onto the top of the can. This contraption was even more wiggly, but up I went. Now my chest was level with the bottom of the window. I pushed the window open again, higher this time but it slid down again. Jumped off the pretend ladder and found a stick that I could hold the window open with. OK! Proud of myself, I climbed back up on this rickety contraption and stuck my head in the window. I was immediately head bumped by my dog Devon who thought this was a fun game. Licking my face over and over and nose bumping my forehead as part of the game, I had to persevere! In spite of my arthritis I was able to get my left heel inside the frame of the window which excited my dog all the more and began jumping up on the windowsill, having a wonderful time. Inch by inch I was able to get more and more of my left leg inside the window. At that point It didn’t matter how much pain it caused I felt victorious and I was going to get in that damn bedroom, get the damn keys and succeed. I managed to slide my body across the windowsill just as the Venetian blinds came crashing down. I didn’t care, I beat the challenge! I got the keys, went out to the car with the old fob and tried to start it…….nothing.
I did not choose to have this adventure. It challenged my rickety body and my distorted mind but I roughed my way through it. It wasn’t as much fun as Henry’s challenge but in a weird way I felt like I had climbed Mount Everest. My car was dead until Monday when I called AAA again, the guy came within half an hour, jump started me again, and after letting it run for an hour I drove it over to the dealer. Lo and behold it wasn’t my main battery but in the recent Jeeps they have that Start/Stop feature that is supposed to save gas by turning off the engine every time you stop for a light or anything else. When I first bought it I thought the car kept stalling out every time I stopped, so I turned that feature off, but apparently the smaller battery when dying draws energy for the main battery. So it spent all of Monday at the Jeep dealership, is home now resting comfortably, ready to start whenever I need it! My daughter also came and spent an hour fixing my Smart TV. So I am GOOD TO GO!